Exploring the Capital of the Yukon

After hanging out at Alpine Bakery (this is a stop you cannot miss if you are ever in Whitehorse) and enjoying the farmer's market yesterday, we decided we liked the town so much that we had to stay another day.  It was about time for a rest day anyway.  We made delicious pancakes this morning, then spent some time biking along the Yukon, exploring the shops on Main Street, and visiting local bike shops. 

Fireweed by the gorgeous clear blue Yukon River

In the afternoon we visited the dam and learned a lot about salmon. Whitehorse has the longest wooden fish ladder in the world: 366m long! Although the salmon were not jumping up the ladder, we saw them pooling at the bottom.  Huge and powerful fish who have traveled upstream almost 3,000km to get here!

The spillway at the dam and part of the fish ladder. 

Can you see the giant shadowy salmon?

But what has made our stay in Whitehorse so special is getting to know our warmshowers host, Jeremie.  He has been more than welcoming, opening his home (and hot tub!) to us. It's been wonderful having such a comfortable place to stay and getting to know Jeremie, his son Finn, and partner Shannon. Thanks so much for everything!
Tomorrow we're planning on getting back on the road.  We'll post some new stories as soon as we find more free wifi.

Whitehorse

Made it to Whitehorse!  We're hanging out now with a couple of other cyclists, and we're hoping to stay with a Warmshowers host tonight.

Matt and Sarah

A wonderful place

Best falafel ever at the farmer's market. His shirt says, "make falafel not kerfuffle."

Trying out the owner's recumbent bike at the bakery

July 30: Water Everywhere

Last night, July 29, we ended up staying in Haines Junction to hang out with Berel and Chris, our German friends who rolled into the bakery just as we were about to leave.  Gabriella and Joelle went off to camp, and us and the guys camped in a different spot.  The girls somehow found the only spot in town that had a no camping sign and put their tent right next to it, and we shook our heads.  We had a great time talking and laughing with Berel and Chris late into the night, and it was too bad that today we had to say goodbye.  Next time in Germany!

Though Haines Junction does not have a grocery store, it does have a community pool with public swim from 7:30-9 every morning, so Tam and I woke up early and went to check that out.  For $4, we were able to swim in the pool and take hot showers!  Again, it's the little things. The subsequent ride was cold and wet; it had rained all night and all morning and continued to rain while we rode.  I would look down at my odometer and find that I had only traveled a tenth of a mile since I last checked.  One of those days.  We stopped about 20 miles in at the truck stop in Otter Falls, where we warmed up and had a nice lunch with Uschi and Christoph, two really thoughtful German folks who spend their summers here in Canada.  They do kayak touring and are on the road driving for a few weeks to check out some of the more northern lakes.  They generously paid for our pancakes before we had a chance to pay, and the stimulating, spiritual conversation gave us food for thought for many miles down the road (and will continue to ruminate).  If you're reading this, thanks guys!

A bit after Otter Falls, it stopped raining and we made good time.  Around 7:30, we camped by a side road near a big patch of small but sweet wild strawberries (!), and as we were eating dinner, another cyclist rolled up.  Max, from Salt Lake City, was planning on taking the side road a few kilometers to the campground, but we convinced him to stay and hang out with us.  

The rain held off throughout dinner, and we shared stories, food, and road beta (information - he's heading in the opposite direction).  Currently it's raining again, which seems to be the norm everywhere we've been, but we press on.  

Lakes and Teleportation, July 28-29

July 27: We started off the day in fine fashion with couscous and olive oil; we had let the couscous hydrate overnight in a peanut butter jar.  The morning fog quickly cleared up and the valley we biked through was nice, but it was tough to focus on that because of a stiff headwind.  Some lollipops helped; an RV pulled alongside us as we were riding and gave us two of them!  It's the little things that make each day unique and special.  

We made it to Burwash Landing, our first town, in good time, the headwind notwithstanding.  There isn't much there except a museum, which we thoroughly enjoyed.  The exhibits were well done and had interesting facts on native animals and people.  Did you know that moose can reach submerged vegetation up to 20 feet below the surface of a pond?  I didn't.  

A few miles up the road we came to Destruction Bay, which is so vividly named for a windstorm that came through and destroyed the town some years ago.  It's not really a town, just one motel with a little gas station, store, and restaurant.  We had been crossing our fingers that they would have chips, salsa, bread, and peanut butter, and they did!  We spent a few hours eating a satisfyingly large lunch of chips and salsa with cheese, and PB&J sandwiches, and using the Wi-Fi to update the blog and check email.  On our way out, we ran into Berel and Chris, the Germans we had met the day before.

 We talked for a bit then headed out, promising to keep an eye out for them when we found a good campsite.  Unfortunately, it seems we went farther than they did, because we haven't seen them again.  We couldn't seem to stop riding; the wind stopped blowing, and the road, winding around the west shore of giant, turquoise Lake Kluane, was incredibly scenic.

 We ended up camping right on the shore, where we made a fire with some driftwood and used it to heat up water for beans and mashed potatoes, as well as to warm ourselves after going for a very quick swim in the frigid lake.  Then, to top it all off, we enjoyed chocolate chip cookies with peanut butter, all warm and melty from the fire. What a wonderful day!

July 28: The same headwind from yesterday did not let up, so the miles came slowly.  We were apprehensive of the highest point on the highway, but we stopped at one point and figured out that we were actually at that highest point!  A long downhill lay ahead, but the rain clouds were threatening.  We donned our rain gear and headed downhill.  And what a downhill!  It lasted over six miles, and though we froze during it because of the cold rain and wind, when we reached the bottom the sun was out, flowers lined the road, which had become smoothly paved, and the headwind had turned into a tailwind!  It was as if we had teleported.  We were flabbergasted, happily surprised.  We spent the next few hours in Haines Junction eating pizza, shopping for food for the next few days, and talking with two cyclists, Gabriella and Joelle, from Quebec.  

They enjoyed their pizza too!  Off to Whitehorse- we will be there in two days and will hopefully take a day there to rest and recuperate.

Destruction Bay, Haines Jct

We're in Destruction Bay now spending a few minutes to talk with family and update the blog, and we're headed to Haines Junction tomorrow.  More updates from HJ or Whitehorse, a few days after that.

   Lake Kluane