Reflections

Deadhorse, Alaska, to Ushuaia, Argentina

696 days:
290 in North America
53 in Central America
7 crossing from Panama to Colombia
346 in South America
151 in Argentina and Chile; we crossed that border 13 times

Not including side trips, nor the few times we hitchhiked, we traveled...
21,493 miles
through 14 countries:
18,311 miles by bicycle
798 miles on 14 boats
2,384 miles on 10 buses 

We reached altitudes of...
20,144 feet on foot
18,900 feet by bike
16,325 feet on loaded bikes.
We ascended 47 passes over 13,100 feet.

One of our many 4,000-meter passes, this one in Peru's Cordillera Blanca

The only parts of our original bikes to make it to Ushuaia were...
both handlebars
three of four rims
both front derailleurs
Tam's seat and seat post (yes, they outlasted Danny's Brooks saddle)

These chainrings didn`t make it past Peru

The stats above make it clear; we've come a long way. But just riding the miles was never enough. Throughout the last 23 months we've grown, learned, and challenged ourselves together and as individuals. We started on road bikes cycling only on pavement, and have ended on mountain bikes we built ourselves riding almost exclusively dirt roads, tracks, and trails. Our travels have been unique, and we're proud of all we have achieved.

A lot of people have called this trip a "once in a lifetime experience." In a very literal sense, this is true; neither of us plans on biking from Alaska to Argentina again. However, we don't see our past two years as the contained experience that this phrase implies. It hasn't just been a trip or a vacation; it has been a meaningful part of our lives. Throughout it, we've developed a way to live life to the fullest that extends far beyond the realm of the bicycle. Whatever we take on in the future – studies, work, or travel – we're confident that it will be equally as rewarding and exciting as this bike ride has been.

What exactly is this way of life? It's constantly seeking out challenge, taking full advantage of learning and teaching opportunities, living a simple lifestyle, setting long-term goals, never saying "I can't," being honest with ourselves and others, sharing freely, stepping out of our comfort zones, and opening ourselves up to the world.

These are not new ideas – we had read about and experienced some of them before – but the challenge we've just completed taught us what they really mean, why they're valuable, and how to make them a part of our lives.

We're in Ushuaia, and our bike ride from the farthest northern point accessible by road to the farthest southern city of the Americas is officially over, but the journey isn't.

The road always goes on! Thanks to Dan for the photo

We are so privileged to have had the opportunities that allowed us to live our dreams. We want to extend thanks to everyone who has given support, love, and friendship along the way. You were an integral part of this journey. We couldn't, and wouldn't, have done it without you.

With love

Danny and Tamara

Sunset over the Galapagos

21 Months: Facts and Figures

From Alaska to Patagonia, the numbers keep growing as the journey continues.

Distance bicycled: 17,085 miles (27,497 kilometers), approximately

National Parks visited: 28, plus countless other types of reserves
Bird species positively identified: 535

Stamps from Argentina and Chile in our passports: 37
Showers in the past month: 4 each, not to mention plenty of brief dips in frigid rivers
Excitement level for the rest of Patagonia: 100%

Tam at Cerro Castillo

Danny enjoying Patagonia´s countless snowy peaks and turquoise rivers

20 Months: Just the Numbers

We`ve been on the road for 20 months! Here`s our trip in a nutshell:

Distance bicycled: 16,334 miles (26,288 kilometers), approximately
National Parks visited: 27, plus countless other types of reserves
Bird species positively identified: 523
4,000-meter (13,100-foot) passes ascended: 47

Highest altitude bicycled (loaded): 16,325 feet (4,976 meters), Punta Pumacocha, Peru
Highest altitude bicycled (unloaded): 18,900 feet (5,760 meters), Cerro Uturuncu, Bolivia
Highest altitude attained on foot: 20,144 feet (6,140 meters), Volcan Queva, Argentina
Stamps from Argentina and Chile in our passports: 29 (they made a mistake at one entry and gave Tam two stamps)
Touring cyclists seen on the Ruta de Siete Lagos: 43

18(.5) Months: The Stats

With just a few short breaks, we´ve now been going for over a year and a half! To sum it up in numbers...
Distance bicycled: 15,108 miles (24,314 kilometers), approximately
Countries visited: 14
Bird species positively identified: 509
4,000-meter (13,100-foot) passes bicycled: 43
Highest altitude bicycled (loaded): 16,325 feet (4,976 meters), Punta Pumacocha, Peru
Highest altitude bicycled (unloaded):  18,900 feet (5,760 meters), Cerro Uturuncu, Bolivia
Highest altitude attained on foot: 20,144 feet (6,140 meters), Volcan Queva, Argentina
Most water carried up a pass: 9 liters (2.25 gallons) each
Most water carried at a time: 12 liters (3 gallons) each

Awkward flamingos at the Bolivia-Chile border with Hannes and Julia, our wonderful friends from Germany

Just for kicks, we tallied up how many cycle tourists of each nationality we have met during our past year in Latin America (Mexico and south). The winners:
France: 10
Germany: 9
Canada: 5
Spain: 5
Our US of A is not too far behind with four, three of whom are from the Bay Area and two of whom are solo females. Rock on, Adriana and Huyen!

Controlling for the populations of these countries can tell us how likely someone from those countries is to go cycle touring in Latin America (and meet us, of course)! Compared to the US, here´s how much more likely we are to meet someone from one of these countries on the road:

Canada: 11.3x
England: 2.5x
France: 12.1x
Germany: 8.9x
Mexico: 1.3x
The Netherlands: 14.2x
Poland: 6.2x
Spain: 8.5x

We included here all countries from which we have met more than one group of cyclists. Is your country not on the list? Get on a bike and start pedaling! And find us, of course, so that we include you!

*This is not a scientific study. For another cyclist to meet us while on the road requires an element of randomness; were we on more traveled routes, surely we would have much more accurate statistics!  But we can at least see that we should be meeting more cyclists from the US based on its population, not to mention its proximity to Latin America. 

A Year of Biking and Backpacking: Stats, Superlatives, a Quiz, andThoughts

Colombia

Alaska to...

Stats
- Miles biked: 10,865 (roughly... our odometers broke/died)

- Countries biked in: 9

- Bird species seen: 376

On a  ferry from Monterrica to La Avellana,
Guatemala

- National Parks experienced: 19

- Time zones traversed: 5

- Boat rides taken, including dinghys to and from larger boats: 18

- Trucks ridden in (with or without bikes): 10 

- Highest elevation achieved on foot: 15,800 feet, El Pulpito, El Cocuy National Park, Colombia

- Highest elevation biked: 13,100 feet, El Cocuy, Colombia

- Highest elevation camped at: 14,970 feet, El Cocuy, Colombia

- Longest time spent in one place: 4 weeks, High Trails, California

- Number of bike shops visited: 57

Superlatives

- Biggest unexpected bike problem: The steel eyelet that my (Tam's) rack was attached to broke off in California. Didn't think that my steel frame would break. 

- Weirdest food eaten: roadkill moose, Fairbanks, AK

- Favorite food eaten (in terms of quality and quantity): pupusas, El Salvador or fish tacos, Baja California

- Strangest plant observed: boojum trees, Baja California

- Favorite/most helpful bike shop: C.O.B., Smithers, British Columbia, Canada

- Worst big city for biking: Panama City, Panama (although, they are developing a nice path along the coast) 

- Biggest cultural difference everywhere: being vegetarian 

- Favorite national park (although it's hard to pick): Denali, Alaska

A grizzly fishing in southern Alaska

Annual Blog Update Quiz, courtesy of Tam's dad, Michel:

Which is greater:

1) Miles travelled by bus or miles travelled over water? 

2) Number of flat tires or days of rest? 

3) New bird species seen in North America or Central and South America? 

4) Number of crocodiles seen or bears seen?

Check back in about a week for the answers!

Thoughts by Danny

This past year, Tam and I have done some things.  We have swum in glacial Arctic rivers, explored submerged shipwrecks in the languid Caribbean, and surfed the barrels of the El Salvador coast (attempted to, anyway).  We have been caving in California, packrafting in Alaska, and birdwatching in Costa Rica.  We have eaten salmon fresh from the Yukon and drunk tequila in the town of Tequila.  This past year of travel, so unlike anything we have done before, has been a whirlwind of color, music, culture, activity, people, and experience, almost all of it entirely novel and utterly, ineffably incredible.  The people especially, from day one in Alaska and every single day since, have surprised, inspired, and educated us more than I could have imagined, and receiving such kindness has filled our own growing hearts with the hope of passing it on. 

With many new friends in Chiapas, Mexico, on Tam's birthday

Accompanying such positivity has been a conspicuous absence of negativity.  Although someone in every country we've been to has told us horrible things about the next, so far we've had no security issues at all.  Some rumors are based in truth, but the vast majority of what we have heard has been little more than schoolyard whisperings, their augmentation and distortion stemming from ignorance and fear of the unknown.  We all have dreams, we all need a human connection, and we are all more similar than we know.  Were someone to rob us tomorrow, one thing they wouldn't be able to take is my firm belief in the good of humanity.  One negative experience, or even multiple, could never overshadow all the laughter we've shared.

With all that we've done, there is also plenty that we have missed out on.  A prestigious job, processed foods, TV, a fancy car... living outside a culture that pushes us inexorably towards these things has been self-affirming and liberating.  And while I plan to further my education and accomplish something, someday, in the working world, right now I have a whole lot to be thankful for.  An abundance of food and health, a loving partner and family, and the fortune and clarity to follow the road we choose are a pretty good place to start, not to mention my trusty bicycle and a pair of well-made shorts.  

A large portion of this next year will be more of the same, if you can consider experiencing new places and meeting new people every day "more of the same."  We've just discovered the Andes, and, though we still plan to reach Patagonia, we've resolved to slow down and take more back roads, enjoying and learning as much as we can.  

A huge thanks is due to our parents, grandparents, and everyone who has supported and encouraged us along the way!  We wouldn't be able to do this without you. 

Yosemite Valley.  Goodnight for now...