21 Months: Facts and Figures

From Alaska to Patagonia, the numbers keep growing as the journey continues.

Distance bicycled: 17,085 miles (27,497 kilometers), approximately

National Parks visited: 28, plus countless other types of reserves
Bird species positively identified: 535

Stamps from Argentina and Chile in our passports: 37
Showers in the past month: 4 each, not to mention plenty of brief dips in frigid rivers
Excitement level for the rest of Patagonia: 100%

Tam at Cerro Castillo

Danny enjoying Patagonia´s countless snowy peaks and turquoise rivers

20 Months: Just the Numbers

We`ve been on the road for 20 months! Here`s our trip in a nutshell:

Distance bicycled: 16,334 miles (26,288 kilometers), approximately
National Parks visited: 27, plus countless other types of reserves
Bird species positively identified: 523
4,000-meter (13,100-foot) passes ascended: 47

Highest altitude bicycled (loaded): 16,325 feet (4,976 meters), Punta Pumacocha, Peru
Highest altitude bicycled (unloaded): 18,900 feet (5,760 meters), Cerro Uturuncu, Bolivia
Highest altitude attained on foot: 20,144 feet (6,140 meters), Volcan Queva, Argentina
Stamps from Argentina and Chile in our passports: 29 (they made a mistake at one entry and gave Tam two stamps)
Touring cyclists seen on the Ruta de Siete Lagos: 43

18(.5) Months: The Stats

With just a few short breaks, we´ve now been going for over a year and a half! To sum it up in numbers...
Distance bicycled: 15,108 miles (24,314 kilometers), approximately
Countries visited: 14
Bird species positively identified: 509
4,000-meter (13,100-foot) passes bicycled: 43
Highest altitude bicycled (loaded): 16,325 feet (4,976 meters), Punta Pumacocha, Peru
Highest altitude bicycled (unloaded):  18,900 feet (5,760 meters), Cerro Uturuncu, Bolivia
Highest altitude attained on foot: 20,144 feet (6,140 meters), Volcan Queva, Argentina
Most water carried up a pass: 9 liters (2.25 gallons) each
Most water carried at a time: 12 liters (3 gallons) each

Awkward flamingos at the Bolivia-Chile border with Hannes and Julia, our wonderful friends from Germany

Just for kicks, we tallied up how many cycle tourists of each nationality we have met during our past year in Latin America (Mexico and south). The winners:
France: 10
Germany: 9
Canada: 5
Spain: 5
Our US of A is not too far behind with four, three of whom are from the Bay Area and two of whom are solo females. Rock on, Adriana and Huyen!

Controlling for the populations of these countries can tell us how likely someone from those countries is to go cycle touring in Latin America (and meet us, of course)! Compared to the US, here´s how much more likely we are to meet someone from one of these countries on the road:

Canada: 11.3x
England: 2.5x
France: 12.1x
Germany: 8.9x
Mexico: 1.3x
The Netherlands: 14.2x
Poland: 6.2x
Spain: 8.5x

We included here all countries from which we have met more than one group of cyclists. Is your country not on the list? Get on a bike and start pedaling! And find us, of course, so that we include you!

*This is not a scientific study. For another cyclist to meet us while on the road requires an element of randomness; were we on more traveled routes, surely we would have much more accurate statistics!  But we can at least see that we should be meeting more cyclists from the US based on its population, not to mention its proximity to Latin America. 

15 Months: Stats, Mountain Climbing, and a Guest Blogger

Miles biked: 12,951 miles (20,843 kilometers), give or take a few hundred miles
Bird species positively identified: 490
Highest altitude achieved: 18,655 feet (5,686 meters), Vallunaraju, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
Highest altitude biked: 15,633 feet (4767 meters), Portachuela de Llanganuco, Cordillera Blanca, Peru
4000 meter (13,100 foot) passes ascended by bike: 9
Number of cities/towns visited whose names end in the suffix "-bamba" (ie Riobamba): 7

We´ve been working furiously here in Huaraz to fix up our bikes and prepare them for the next remote segment of our trip, but we took a break from the errands to take advantage of our time in this mecca of mountaineering. Not having much experience, even the apparently moderate Vallunaraju provided quite a challenge. I´ll let the photos take it from here...

An afternoon snowstorm at base camp buried our tent and left the surrounding peaks covered in a shimmering layer of white

Sunrise while heading up the glacier

You can see the city of Huaraz far below on the right side of the photo

A beautiful morning view of Huascaran

Making our way up, our guide Stephen leading the way

Lots of snow!

The last push to the summit

Made it to the top! 18,655 feet

The photographer

The obligatory couple shot

Tam´s parents, Andie and Michel, have also been having plenty of adventures! They are our guest bloggers, and here is their post:


Tam´s parent's here with a guest blog appearance! So we thought a trip to the northwest would be a good idea mid-August to escape the heat of southern Georgia. We picked Portland, as a country music festival was happening there and it's a reasonable drive to Walla Walla where there are many wineries which we would enjoy tasting out. Once we got the travel arrangements done we realised we would be heading to an area that our cyclists had gone through nearly a year ago. So a great opportunity to visit a few of the wonderful people they have met during their long journey.

Results: 

Nice couple!

1- arrived in Portland where a record 25th day of 90 degree weather was achieved. So much for escaping the heat, but I guess it was a dryer heat...

2- Tasted 21 different grape varieties in all sort of combinations (i.e. 100% semillion! And some blends of 6 grapes). Success! Quite an area to enjoy.

3- we took a drive towards Pomeroy and dropped in to see Curt and Julie (see blog post of 9/17/14). They were a bit shocked at first to see strangers show up bearing a basket of goodies. After introductions they quickly welcomed us in their home and regaled in the recollections of Tam, Danny and at that time Cameron's visit. It was great to personally be able to thank them for their hospitality. 

Happy at the farm

The next day we stopped by the Welcome Table farm (See blog posts 9/18-9/21) and met up with Liz and the farm family. Liz came out of the fields where she was picking corn to see who the announced visitors were, and her confused expression changed quickly to astonished enjoyment after we mentioned Tam and Danny. We had a nice chat on her work and life at the farm; she is enjoying it greatly and we can see her happiness shine through.

It was a terrific experience for us, and our future travels will seek to connect with some more of the fabulous people that Tam and Danny have met.

Andie and Michel

P.S. The country music festival was fabulous fun!

14 Months: The Data

Miles biked: 12,019 (19,343 kilometers)
Countries visited: 11
National parks visited: 23
Bird species seen: 471
4,000+ meter (13,100+ foot) passes ascended: 4
Hummingbird species seen in Ecuador: 14
Time spent listening to podcasts about The State vs. Adnan Syed: 22 hours of 36 episodes listened to over 10 months

A Year of Biking and Backpacking: Stats, Superlatives, a Quiz, andThoughts

Colombia

Alaska to...

Stats
- Miles biked: 10,865 (roughly... our odometers broke/died)

- Countries biked in: 9

- Bird species seen: 376

On a  ferry from Monterrica to La Avellana,
Guatemala

- National Parks experienced: 19

- Time zones traversed: 5

- Boat rides taken, including dinghys to and from larger boats: 18

- Trucks ridden in (with or without bikes): 10 

- Highest elevation achieved on foot: 15,800 feet, El Pulpito, El Cocuy National Park, Colombia

- Highest elevation biked: 13,100 feet, El Cocuy, Colombia

- Highest elevation camped at: 14,970 feet, El Cocuy, Colombia

- Longest time spent in one place: 4 weeks, High Trails, California

- Number of bike shops visited: 57

Superlatives

- Biggest unexpected bike problem: The steel eyelet that my (Tam's) rack was attached to broke off in California. Didn't think that my steel frame would break. 

- Weirdest food eaten: roadkill moose, Fairbanks, AK

- Favorite food eaten (in terms of quality and quantity): pupusas, El Salvador or fish tacos, Baja California

- Strangest plant observed: boojum trees, Baja California

- Favorite/most helpful bike shop: C.O.B., Smithers, British Columbia, Canada

- Worst big city for biking: Panama City, Panama (although, they are developing a nice path along the coast) 

- Biggest cultural difference everywhere: being vegetarian 

- Favorite national park (although it's hard to pick): Denali, Alaska

A grizzly fishing in southern Alaska

Annual Blog Update Quiz, courtesy of Tam's dad, Michel:

Which is greater:

1) Miles travelled by bus or miles travelled over water? 

2) Number of flat tires or days of rest? 

3) New bird species seen in North America or Central and South America? 

4) Number of crocodiles seen or bears seen?

Check back in about a week for the answers!

Thoughts by Danny

This past year, Tam and I have done some things.  We have swum in glacial Arctic rivers, explored submerged shipwrecks in the languid Caribbean, and surfed the barrels of the El Salvador coast (attempted to, anyway).  We have been caving in California, packrafting in Alaska, and birdwatching in Costa Rica.  We have eaten salmon fresh from the Yukon and drunk tequila in the town of Tequila.  This past year of travel, so unlike anything we have done before, has been a whirlwind of color, music, culture, activity, people, and experience, almost all of it entirely novel and utterly, ineffably incredible.  The people especially, from day one in Alaska and every single day since, have surprised, inspired, and educated us more than I could have imagined, and receiving such kindness has filled our own growing hearts with the hope of passing it on. 

With many new friends in Chiapas, Mexico, on Tam's birthday

Accompanying such positivity has been a conspicuous absence of negativity.  Although someone in every country we've been to has told us horrible things about the next, so far we've had no security issues at all.  Some rumors are based in truth, but the vast majority of what we have heard has been little more than schoolyard whisperings, their augmentation and distortion stemming from ignorance and fear of the unknown.  We all have dreams, we all need a human connection, and we are all more similar than we know.  Were someone to rob us tomorrow, one thing they wouldn't be able to take is my firm belief in the good of humanity.  One negative experience, or even multiple, could never overshadow all the laughter we've shared.

With all that we've done, there is also plenty that we have missed out on.  A prestigious job, processed foods, TV, a fancy car... living outside a culture that pushes us inexorably towards these things has been self-affirming and liberating.  And while I plan to further my education and accomplish something, someday, in the working world, right now I have a whole lot to be thankful for.  An abundance of food and health, a loving partner and family, and the fortune and clarity to follow the road we choose are a pretty good place to start, not to mention my trusty bicycle and a pair of well-made shorts.  

A large portion of this next year will be more of the same, if you can consider experiencing new places and meeting new people every day "more of the same."  We've just discovered the Andes, and, though we still plan to reach Patagonia, we've resolved to slow down and take more back roads, enjoying and learning as much as we can.  

A huge thanks is due to our parents, grandparents, and everyone who has supported and encouraged us along the way!  We wouldn't be able to do this without you. 

Yosemite Valley.  Goodnight for now...

Stat Sheet: 10 Months

Miles biked: 9,605 (15,458 km)

Countries experienced: 7

Bird species seen: 276

New bird species seen since entering Costa Rica a week ago: 28

Water bottle cages broken: 6

Volcanoes seen in Central America: 12

9 Months! The Stats

A mural, Mexico's favorite type of painting, depicting the history of the city of Comitan

Kilometers biked: 13,843 (8,306 miles)

Countries traversed: 3

Mexican states traversed: 12

High school classes spoken to: 4

Birthdays celebrated: 2

Tortillas eaten in Mexico: approximately 900, based off of 20 per day, 5 days a week, for the 9 weeks we were in Mexico

Bird species seen: 233

Lonely Planet Mexico's Top 21 completed: 12

8 Months!

Miles biked: 7,825

Bird species seen: 207

Tires worn through: 5

Water bottle cages broken: 3

Tortillas eaten: thousands

Maximum speed attained by Danny: 44.6 mph 

Presentations given to high school students: 2

Wow. 8 Months. And now the adventure is really beginning.  Far from the wilds of the north we know and love, Mexico has been very different.  The language, the culture, the heat in the middle of winter... It has not all been easy to get used to.  Yet the friendliness of the people, the very same openness and generosity which so amazed and humbled us early on and remained constant throughout our time in Canada and the US, holds true here, perhaps to an even greater extent.  The kindness of the Mexicans has been legendary; read almost any of our daily entries to see for yourself.  And those are only the grand gestures.  We don't write on this blog about the smiles, the waves, the countless times a day we hear, "Adonde van?" (Where are you going?), because there would be just too much to write!  Unrecognized though all these small gestures may be, they add to a sense of belonging that we've received here in spades.

And the food... well, all I can say is that I ate dinner hours ago and am still comfortably stuffed!

What's not to love?

5 Months: The Numbers

Miles biked: 6,013

Miles my mom biked with us: 540

Highest elevation my mom biked: 8,445 feet, Onyx Summit

Flat tires: 11

Highest elevation biked: 9,945 feet, Tioga Pass, Yosemite

Highest elevation hiked: 11,493 feet, Vogelsang Peak, Yosemite

All-you-can-eat buffets attended: 9

Steepest grade biked: 18%

Record number of pancakes eaten at one time: 45

Four Months:The Stats

Miles biked: 4941

National Parks experienced: 10 

Highest elevation hiked: 10,358 feet, South Sister, Oregon 

Highest elevation biked: 7,960 feet, Crater Lake, Oregon

Flat tires: 6

Total time spent watching TV/movies: 2.5 hours

Bird species seen: 118

Caves explored: 10

3 Months: Just the Numbers

Miles biked: 3700 (roughly- we stopped keeping track)

National Parks experienced: 7

Flat tires: 1

Money spent: $1,923.75 by Danny

Bears seen: 23

Total time spent watching TV/movies: 2.5 hours

Bird species seen: 98

Holes in the tent: 0! Big Agnes sent us a replacement because of a defective zipper

Fastest speed attained: 41.6 mph by Danny

The First Month By the Numbers, and Kindness

We've been traveling for a month, and what a month it's been!  Here are some facts:

Miles biked: 942
National Parks experienced: 2
Flat tires: 0 (fingers crossed...)
Money spent: $607 (by Danny, including an expensive new saddle and rain pants)
Grizzly bears seen: 5
Total time spent watching TV/movies: 27 minutes
Stops for pancakes: 6
Bird species seen: 64 

Holes in the tent: 6

I had thought, this being Alaska and all, that the most amazing part of this first segment would be the wilderness.  The Arctic tundra, the Brooks Range, and Mt McKinley and the Alaska Range are pretty tough to beat.  And the wilderness has been incredible, but most memorable and surprising has been the kindness we've experienced from people.  Bike touring brings out a good side of humanity; people realize that you have what you need to survive, but not much more.  Our friend Sarah, who is currently riding across the US, recently wrote about the kindness she has experienced along her tour, even after being consistently warned about the other people out there.  Here are some of the "other" people we have met:

Andrew and Anna from Fairbanks, who took us into their home for a number of days, spent countless hours helping us repair our bikes and review maps, fed us all kinds of incredible food until we were full (not an easy thing to do), took us canoeing, and introduced us to the city.  All while being busy grad students.

The manager of the Clear Sky Lodge (unfortunately never got her name) who made us hot chocolate even though it wasn't on the menu, let us use their grill to cook quesadillas, then refused to let us pay.

Al, who stopped in the pouring rain on a very rough stretch of road and offered to give us a lift, then loaded our bikes in the boat he was towing and dropped us off down the road.

John and Maureen from Anchorage, who shared their campfire and wine with us then drove many miles out of their way so we could spend July 4th in Talkeetna, where they gave us shower tokens, bought us dinner, showed us around the town, and then drove us back to the main road the next day.

Jeff and Sarah from Anchorage (John and Maureen's son and daughter-in-law, incidentally), who opened their home to us, took us out to dinner, and offered to let us stay as long as we liked.

Nancy, the campground host where we stopped one night, who offered us free firewood and her good water, then helped us pay the fee when we didn't have enough cash.

Karen, Brandon, Marco, Martin, and Chris, who gave us their extra backpacking food, shared their fantastic pizza dinner with us, and offered to let us stay with them if we pass through San Francisco.

Heidi, a Park Ranger from Wiseman, who spent many hours helping us plan our trip into Gates of the Arctic, invited us to stop by her place when we finished backpacking, and undercharged us by at least 50% on the things we bought at her store.  A wonderful young lady working with Heidi gifted Tam a beautiful necklace, which Tam has not taken off since.

Ashley at Yukon River Camp, a very friendly waitress who gave us free pie and salads.  (Randomly, she applied last spring to work at High Trails!  I would hire her.)


These are simply the people who stuck out in my mind.  So many more, like the bus driver who charged us for only one fare even though our bikes were taking up at least ten seats, have helped us out in small ways.  I can't even express how much this incredible kindness and generosity, a side of humanity I've never experienced in this capacity, has added to this trip and to our lives.